For three years I called Peru home while I served in the U.S. Peace Corps nearly 10 years ago. This year, I find myself back in Peru for many months, traversing some of those same highways, busy city streets, dirt roads, and bike routes. But I am also discovering new corners of this beautiful country, meeting new people, and believe it or not, I am still discovering new food!
When you think of Peru, what do you think of? (Without looking at your phone… No Google. No AI.)
The most common responses I’ve gotten from US citizens are: Machu Picchu and llamas. A few people might remember that Lima is the capital. And fewer still might think of Lake Titicaca, which shares its beaches with both Peru and Bolivia. Foodies might have heard that Peru is the “World’s Leading Culinary Destination,” a title it has won multiple times, including in 2023 and 2024.
Ask a Peruvian about Peru, and they often mention the food first. Every new Peruvian I meet always wants to know if I like the food and “what is my favorite dish?” (They are also usually surprised that my answer isn’t lomo saltado, ceviche, pollo a la brasa, or one of the common dishes served in a restaurant Lima. Rather, my favorite dish is something their mom or grandmother would cook regularly at home, called locro de zapallo.)
If it’s not the food, Peruvians (and visitors to Peru) are likely to define Peru as a country known for its rich variety of different (and very beautiful) landscapes, climates, and cultures, which are generally categorized into three regions: coast (la costa), mountains (la sierra), and jungle/rainforest (la selva).
The coast (which is along the Pacific Ocean) has mostly desert landscapes and of course the cuisine is dominated mainly seafood (Peruvian ceviche, arroz con mariscos, and more!) The desert landscapes quickly rise in altitude, turning into the Andes mountains (la sierra) as you travel east from the coast. The sierra is where the llamas and the more than 4,000 varieties of potatoes are from. And as you continue east, down the other side of the Andes, you arrive in the jungle (la selva), the edge of the Amazon rainforest, rich in biodiversity and diversity of indigenous cultures and languages.
I have been lucky to live and work in central Peru – “The Selva Central”. That means that as I travel to and from the capital, I have the opportunity to cross all three major regions. The landscapes are ever-changing and breathtaking. Though thousands of people do it every day, it’s not for the weak of heart. Crossing the Andes means winding up to 4,818 meters above sea level (15,800 feet), and then back down again. It means traveling from the damp coast to the cold mountains, through the humid jungle, and winding back up to the high jungle, or the “ceja de la selva”. If you can handle a 12-hour bus ride or 8 hours of changing cars a few times “en escala” by “collectivo”, it is well worth the experience!
I will continue to share my experiences diving below the surface and exploring some of the beautiful nooks and crannies of Peru. In the meantime, here are some photos traversing from la costa, to la sierra, to la selva. Can you guess which region each is from?
Answers (from top left to right): 1. between the coast and sierra 2. Coast 3. Between coast and sierra 4. Coast 5. between the coast and sierra 6. sierra 7. sierra 8. between the coast and sierra 9. between the coast and sierra 10. sierra 11. sierra 12. jungle 13. jungle 14. jungle 15. sierra (between sierra and jungle) 16. sierra (end of rainy season so it’s green) 17. between the coast and sierra 18. between the coast and sierra 19. between the coast and sierra 20. between the coast and sierra 21. between sierra and jungle (end of rainy season so it’s green)